When your Bosch dishwasher stops mid-cycle and shows a code like E24 or E15, that’s the machine telling you exactly what went wrong. A few of these codes have homeowner checks worth trying before calling anyone. Most point to something a tech needs to handle.
E24: Drain Isn’t Clearing
E24 is the most common Bosch error code I see on service calls. It means the dishwasher couldn’t drain at the end of a cycle. Two things are worth checking yourself first:
The filter. Pull the lower rack out, unscrew the cylindrical filter at the bottom of the tub, and lift out the flat mesh filter underneath. If there’s debris, grease, or a piece of glass in there, clean it and run a short cycle. This is where E24 starts for most people.
The drain hose. The hose runs from the pump to your sink drain or disposal and needs a high loop or air gap to prevent siphoning. If you recently installed a garbage disposal, confirm the knockout plug was removed from the inlet. Both checks are visual and need no tools.
If the filter is clean and the hose looks fine, the drain pump is likely the culprit. Getting to the pump means laying the machine on its back and accessing internal components. That’s a tech job. Attempting it without the right know-how usually ends up costing more than a service call would have.
E15: Water in the Base Pan
E15 triggers Bosch’s AquaStop leak protection when water reaches the base pan. One step is worth trying yourself: pull the unit out, tilt it backward about 45 degrees, and let the standing water drain. Once the float switch resets, the error may clear.
If it keeps coming back, there’s an active leak. The door gasket is worth a visual check for cracks or debris, and wiping it down with a damp cloth. But finding and fixing the actual source (gasket, hose connection, inlet valve, spray arm) is diagnostic work. Getting it wrong means more water damage and a bigger repair bill. A tech pulls the unit, checks the base, and traces the leak properly.
E09: Heating Element Fault
E09 means the control board isn’t seeing the right signal from the heating element circuit. It could be a burned-out element, a failed NTC temperature sensor, or a loose wiring connection. Diagnosing which one requires a multimeter and the expected resistance values for your specific model. There’s no homeowner check here worth attempting. Electrical testing on an unfamiliar appliance leads to misdiagnosis more often than a fix, and replacing the wrong part wastes money.
A tech tests the element and sensor, confirms the fault, and replaces the right component.
E22 and Other Codes
E22 is a circulation fault, usually the same clogged filter that causes E24. Clean the filter the same way. Bosch recommends doing this every month or two; most people don’t until a code shows up.
E18 is a water supply issue. Check that the valve under the sink is fully open. If water pressure is normal and the valve is open, the inlet valve screen may be clogged or the valve itself is failing. That’s a parts repair.
What’s Worth Trying Yourself
Filter cleaning, drain hose inspection, verifying the supply valve is open, and the E15 tilt-and-drain step. Those are it. No tools, no disassembly.
Anything past that, a failed pump, inlet valve, heating element, control board, or internal leak, is a repair. Bosch machines are built well enough that repair usually makes more sense than replacement, but misdiagnosis costs more than just calling someone in the first place.
Book a Service Call
If you’ve worked through the basics and the code is still showing, or you’re not sure what you’re looking at, call us. We service Bosch dishwashers across the Tri-Valley and East Bay. We’ll get you on the schedule fast, often same or next day when we can. Book at adriumservice.com or call and describe the code. We can usually tell you over the phone whether it’s a quick fix or a real repair.